Wine is all about the million different teeny tiny decisions as tons of grapes slide the downward spiral that is entropy. Some people have no faith, and they will–through oak, acid, glycerin, and untold other chemicals added to their juice–ensure good wine. Some people have the courage to know their grapes are fantastic, and let the little balls of fun do their thing. The former people are suited to make 100,000 cases of McWine. Every bottle of AG Vintner’s Preserve Chardonnay will taste exactly the same.
So, when everyone is using the same ingredients, from the same sources that grew the grapes the same way, following standard operating procedure of UC-Davis Internet help sites, what do you expect?
I love the pioneer spirit of the Northwest, I do, but a disturbing trends festers amongst its infant wineries. Much like the dot.com start-ups of the 90’s, they’re high on ideas and short on substance. Carry that analogy along to asking prices, if you will.
To me making wine is like making music, or cooking. You don’t have to have knowledge of the classics. But if you do, it shows. I think many of the upstarts in Washington are too content to drink their own juice to have a realistic view of quality or value. I wonder if they ever drink anything but their wines or their neighbor’s. Because it shows. The wine makers that have passions for certain wines of the world bring an experience to the table. And much like a chef, it gives them a bigger toolbox from which to draw. I don’t want schlock from someone that grew up on over-oaked wine equivalents of the Big Mac.
The most maddening thing about it all? Potential abounds in the Columbia Valley. It’s an irrigated desert. The problem in Washington isn’t ripening, it’s over-ripening. The latter leads to flaccid wines of minuscule distinction. What this state needs is a healthy streak of sadism, some more winemakers to treat those clusters of purple globules like the little masochists they are.

Wines I loved today:
   
Syncline Millbrandt Vineyards Syrah  –  James has a talent that is inversely proportional to his ego–he is graciously humble and insanely gifted. A lover of Rhone varietals, he manages to coax unique, delicate flavor and exotic aromas from his wines. Elegance, finesse, structure, layers: these are all words that apply to his style.
Librandi Ciro Rosato — An obscure Italian grape (Gaglioppo), from a tiny seaside town in Calabria and one of the nicest men in Italy. I like the bright, crisp raspberry flavors in this wine, without it coming off fruity. Italian rose can trump even some of the best Frenchies (try Salice Salentino, Sicilian, or Alto Adige). This one is also magical in how it stands up to spicy food. They eat hot peppers in everything in Calabria, after all.

COMMENT:
AUTHOR: d
EMAIL:
IP: 24.19.13.44
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DATE: 02/18/2005 07:06:20 PM
I hear there are a couple morons making wine without the manipulation somewhere on Queen Anne. You are too right about the formulaic process that most winemakers use to get all the numbers right. Assholes. If the fruit is good, treat it kindly and stay the hell out of it’s way. Can’t wait to taste that wine from Queen Anne though…
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