I post this because I’m sure most wine bloggers will be a-twitter over it.

Grapes of Wrath for Wine Fraudster

in Sydney Morning Herald

Basically, wine producer George Duboeuf got caught and fined for allegedly bending the Beaujolais AOC rules, blending in juice/grapes that aren’t allowed or don’t meet up to the standard in that area. Reps for the wine factory say it was an honest mistake, and that the wine never made it to market.

I roll my eyes in France’s general direction. First, who cares? Second, this is nothing compared to what happens all the time around the world. My understanding is, at least the grapes came from the same area.

Let me tell you a little story of one of my recent trips to Italy. I was in Calabria, and after a night of feasting and drinking, I thought I’d ask a very venerable winemaker if it was true that some of Calabria’s Gaglioppo** made it up north to double for Nebbiolo in Piedmont. Of course, he said. Farmers sent grapes up north every year, especially now that the American-style fruit bomb palate reigned. He was so nonchalant about it. But he further explained that Italy was Italy, and his region was very poor.

Maybe people felt more comfortable talking about this on their own turf, because I heard the same story all around Basilicata. And Puglia (their native Negroamaro can, eh hem allegedly, give a great boost to Amarone production up north of Verona).

Ooh, nooooooo, this couldn’t possibly be true, you say. No, you’re right. Honesty will always triumph over feeding the children. Because a poor, rural farmer from a town that gets far fewer tourists than Muffy’s precious Tuscany (read: none) cares that rich Americans get what they pay for, right? Shhhhhhhhure they do.

But the French are different, you say? Shhhhhhhhure they are. Fact: Pinot Noir is one of the most commonly planted grapes on the Italian island of Sardinia. Ever seen a bottle? Neither have I. And neither have the majority of Sardinians. But where oh where does it go?

This shit happens all the time. How else do you think California gets rid of some of their badly rated vintages? The fact that the French smack Georgie’s ass for it is laughable. How else do you think Champagne sales can grow and grow and grow? The region is finite. They always use reserve wines, you say? Shhhhhhhure, of course they do. Uh huh. Riiiiight.

Psst… wanna buy a bridge?

** Gaglioppo is a grape native to the area making wines that, to me, taste like Nebbiolo with a suntan.