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2003 Burgundy: Never Mind the Heat Wave

After hearing the body count of France’s worst heat wave in who knows how many years, it was easy to  pre-judge certain wines from that vintage. Burgundy from 2003 will probably suck. Or, it’ll taste like some Syrah-like abomination out of Central California. And if you love Burgundy, that means suck.
   But I’ve learned 2 very important lessons over the years. #1–Taste first, judge second. Trivial, but amazing how many wine guys don’t. B–Never count out a quality producer. Oh, wait, and #3–fuck vintage(say this with a French or Italian accent).
   In France and Italy, a good producer trumps a bad vintage the majority of the time.  And because I taste every wine before I buy it, I never look at vintage. It means nothing to me if the wine comes from someone I love like Fichet or Montille, or importers Becky Wasserman and North Berkley.
   I was just assaulted with gorgeous Pinot and Chardonnay the other day–all from North Berkley Imports, all from 2003. None of these wines will be over 75$ on the shelf. Half will be under $30. Of particular note: any Beaune carrying the NB moniker on the back label, Meursault, and some killer Southie whites. I thought each showed character true to the producer, with plenty of great acidity. Not what I expected at all.
   I know I have the luxury of tasting first. But that’s why you pick someones brain, someone like me.
   Idiots use charts and graphs for scores and years.
   Smart people ASK an wine geek that has a PASSION for the style of wine the want. For example, I’m not your huckleberry if you want 98 point California designer label Cab. I’m falling asleep just thinking about it. Save yourself some trouble: stay home and Google that shit, buy it on-line.
   But you want to try more Burgundy? Just started exploring Piedmont? Really like some of the Loire wines and want to know more? Dig the 10$ bonanza of South African goodness? You’re not alone, find someone to help you. By going to a wine shop that can help you make choices, you actually SAVE money–through less trial and error.
   So, my tip for Pinot Noir lovers is to seek out 2003 Burgundy (especially Cotes de Beaune) from the most excellent(note: that does not mean expensive) producers and importers.
          Importers to search out:        Wegandt/Metzler
                                                                    Beaune Imports
                                                                    Becky Wasserman
                                                                    Neil Rosenthal
                                                                    North Berkley Imports

          Producers:    Domaine de Montille, Domaine Latour-Giraud(Meursault), Nicholas Potel (good distribution, larger production), Domaine Bruno Clair, Camille Giroud(love! love! love!), VERGET!!!, Garaudet, BUT! Remember, when searching for French wines, be flexible BUT be straight about what you want. Use these names as a jumping off point. Mentioning some of the importers above should tell a wine shop you mean business.
   


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