I love Portland. I think you can read volumes about a city by looking at its architecture. And Portland has made a real effort to hold on to the working class, warehouse, industrial buildings of its past. The brick and steel theme carries through most of the newer builds. Even Starbucks is forced to alter its standard green fastfood awning, make like a Frapaccino, and blend in. Each neighborhood you visit, you see the corporations encroaching on the outskirts, like a boogie man behind the closet door, but kept at bay, for the most part (watch out Nob Hill).

I love Portland mostly for two reasons: Powell’s Books and I just plain like to eat. The restaurants we hit this time were spectacular:

Bluehour - A beautiful restaurant that doesn’t look over-agencied (as in everything designed by some guys in black turtlenecks and wire frames). Fabulous food. We had perfectly seared sea scallops, wrapped in pancetta, on a celery root puree with fried capers. Fried flippin capers! It’s the Italian equivalent of the wasabi pea and I love it. Plates were inventive, not fussy. Decor was lush, grown up, and comfortable. There were people Dining with a capital "D," snacking, pre-funking, and drinking.

saucebox - Sweet place to hang out. Food looked good, but we forgot to eat. I’m too old for all that clubby shit, but I love a good non-intrusive DJ, strong cocktails, and a mellow vibe like this. Again, excellent design without looking like it was "designed." The robot dandelion mural is worth dropping in for a Negroni.

Navarre - Tiny, but dangerous. Everything we had caused a fight for the last bite, from the radicchio gratin, crab crepe, and pork, to the world’s most perfect kale and a dish simply known as "bird." A recipe from the owner’s family, slow cooked and chock full’a almonds and smoked paprika. This is exactly how I like to dine. No more than 12 tables crammed into a small space, where everyone has immense personal responsibility for the well-being of the customers. Because when it’s right, it’s the fucking best. Like this place.

**I’d like to give an honorable mention to the homemade "Oreos" served at Half & Half round the corner from Powell’s.

Portland is seriously edging Seattle and Vancouver in the "cool" category, dominating in the food category (go ahead write me, but it’s true), and bending Seattle over in the civic planning department. Add proximity to wine country (which Seattle and Vancouver sadly lack) and it’s no contest.