You get invited to an obscene amount of lunches in this business that is wine. The trick is, knowing when to say yes. So when I was asked to lunch with Giuseppe Mazzocolin of Felsina, I said "hell yes."

Felsina is the benchmark by which I judge all other Chianti. Set on the southern-most edge of the Chianti Classico region know as Berardenga, this winery is all about tradition and terroir. Giuseppe was the first to tell us how much the people who work the vineyard contribute to his wine, along with consultant Franco Bernabei, of course

One of the cooler things he said: “It’s not enough to say organic.” We, as Americans (and especially West coasters) are obsessed with that word. I’ve found that most Italian wineries ARE organic, in principle but not certifiably. Most Europeans speak more of an overriding concept of organics. As Giuseppe explained, “It must be about the land, the weather, the animals, the vines. The desire is to preserve the vitality of the land where you live and work.”

It’s easy for me to be jaded in this business. Partly because it has become such a … business. The way he spoke, it reminds me of why I love wine so much. He reminded  me that wine is a business incidentally and a passion primarily, necessarily, and ultimately.

Felsina Chianti Classico 2001 - Chianti to me has two main branches: those that exhibit more of the Sangiovese character that is rustic dry red fruit, and vibrant gland squeezing acidity, and those that are more fruit-rich Bordeaux-like competitors. Maybe nobody understands what I mean, but it helps me keep it all straight. I like both. And I think this bottle is a weaving of the two. I always force it upon someone who says they don’t like Chianti. It is definitely Sangiovese, dry cherry and pomegranate, you can see through it. But it also has a more refined character that makes it the kicker of any 20$ Bordeaux ass.

Felsina 1999 Rancia - This is from a single 6 acre section of the estate. If you can get your hands on any of the 1999 Felsina wines, just frickin do it.

Farnetella Lucilla and Chianti Colle Senesi - Some 8 or 10 miles south, just outside of Sienna, lies this gem of a property. Both bottles are a mere $15 (or less if you live in a less tax-addicted state than Washington). The Lucilla, remarkable at the price, is 70% Sangio, and 15% each Merlot and Cab–if it were a pimp, you’d call it "Silky." It’s a little more new world in style, but it doesn’t try to hid the Sangiovese like the bigger corporate guys cough Banfi cough, cough. It’s not ashamed to be Sangiovese.