October is jam packed with wine tastings for the trade. So much so that there were four big tastings around the city last Monday. I’ve got to say, it was hard to get motivated because that’s my only day off. I chose arbitrarily to ditch the one with no parking because I woke up in a foul mood and didn’t want to drive. I avoided like the plague the one I refer to as “Wine Prom,” and sadly skipped another that was just off my errand trail for the day.

But that left me with 40+ wines from North Berkeley Imports and all the time in the world to taste. Every time N.B. opens the books, it’s a pleasure and a joy. This is one of my Top 10: “We don’t fuck around” importers. Some of the highlights (with more to follow down the road):

2006 Verget du Sud VDP Vaucluse Blanc ($15) - For some of you, I know
I have you at “Verget.” It also says
Roussanne on the label, and the aroma
and flavors confirm it. Subtle, the smells
dart around like half-remembered
thoughts: is it flowers? or chamomile? definitely honey. A wine that fills your mouth with a cooling nectarine flavor, maybe edging towards peach, it remains light and even from sip to swallow, flavors lingering admirably. I’d love to drink this with something earthy, like black lentils. All I know is it will love my cornbread and braised greens at the same time. And that alone recommends it.

2005 Domaine Perraud Pinot Noir ($15) - Alright Seattle, I’ll just say you’re welcome right now. How the hell this wine is still in stock, I do not know. It’s the bitchinest under $20 Pinot in the city. Tons of pretty fresh raspberry aroma up front, with a lean and mean tart fruit attack in the mouth. Goddammit Pinot Noir like this shouldn’t be the exception. Didn’t used to be (grumble).

2005 Margalleau Vouvray Brut ($17) - I love sparkling Vouvray. It’s like having cremant, with a cider back. A stinging apple attack leads to a round, creamy mouth full of almost cider-like flavor. It’s crying out for a cheese like La Tur or Chaource, something that gets ooey gooey at room temp, is somewhat funky, and clocks in high in butterfat percentage.

2004 Chateau La Pontete Graves de Vayres ($20) - It also said “Bellegraves” on the label, which got me to taste it because Belgrave is one Bordeaux I buy habitually. Sneaky, sneaky. But I didn’t mind; this wine was peppery and light, with a medium soft and very young tannin (meaning a little green tasting, like a fresh snapped twig). But I think I’[m going to get a case of this to age. It’s affordable, has wonderful structure, and should hit puberty in about 3 to 5 years but stay tasty through its teens.