Last week I went to a 2005 Burgundy preview put on by Joseph Drouhin. All the wines were very cheeky. But when I tasted the higher end whites, I was surprised, confused, pleased, and scared.

Surprised: Tasting fancy white burgundy this young shouldn’t be an entirely pleasant experience. These wines take a little time to come together. When they’re young, they usually taste like a mix of apples, razor blades, and oak.

Confused: So fruity and approachable, very integrated. Could California weather bring about such a makeover on these wines? Is this what Burgundy looks like with a little bronzer?

Pleased: They tasted delicious, empirically delicious.

Scared: What does it all mean? France’s heat waves are shaking up the way we see Chablis and Burgundy, among others. When France is the paradigm for putting the rest of the wine world in perspective, what happens when the paradygm goes all tits up?

Ah, screw it. If you see a stack of reasonably priced 2005 white Burgundy, like a Macon Villages or St. Veran, by all means grab some. (The Drouhins included; their St. Veran was a zingy delight.) Do not hold, do not think, just drink and enjoy.