John Bonne, one of the few voices in wine with a traditional media tie worth reading in Seattle, brings up some interesting points in his latest post about Thomas Keller’s decision to implement a 20% standard service charge at his burger joint Per Se in NYC: view post from amuse-bouche.net HERE. His worries are my worries, less motivated service, living wages for front and BACK of house, etc. His best point: if you’re going to go for a Euro style of payment for employees, Tommy, go all the way and get ‘er done. (I’m paraphrasing) Amen, John.

Flat service charges are welcome from me, but I better get the treatment, in Per Se’s case 20% worth. And the staff better get paid. The way I see it, I’ve been in this business forever, and if someone’s going to tell me what to tip, I better not have to tell them how to serve. The fear is a lousy experience, lazy servers. Take away motivation and what have you got?

John also goes on to comment on the slipping of extra tips as being the customer’s way around this, but calls it "quaint:" only in Seattle, brother. In real cities, you show your appreciation. Here in the land of Nordstrom, few people know how to properly tip, be it their butcher, cheese monger, or mailman–it’s the plague of the Nouveau Riche (don’t get me started). Matter of fact, few people know how to dine anymore. I don’t say this as a snob. My grandfather, never ever a well-off man, taught me how to D.I.N.E.–it’s as much about manners as taking your time. Very few people know how to serve in Seattle, too.

But, seriously, I digress. I suspect that is why Keller is doing this. With the new food-as-sport culture blooming, I’m sure many diners trek to Per Se like families to Disneyland.

But in the end, unhappy cooks and waitstaff in a restaurant are like an bad rash that can only be treated with greenbacks or pink slips. Lest it spread.
  Hey, maybe that can be my next incarnation: Server Boot Camp. I could scream at them and make them lick dirty silverware, just like Gordon Ramsay!