Decanter: Here’s to Wine, Old Guys, and Waiting for the Reaper
If I read any wine magazine at all, it’s Decanter. This month’s issue has "Wines Top 50: The Power List," of "who’s shaping the wine you drink."
There are a couple points of interest about their little list.
1). While 30 people on the list are CEOs, Prezzies, or other figureheads, there is only one winemaker on the list. (3 if you stoop to count consulting winemakers)
2). There is only one person under 40 on the list, Jean-Charles Boisset, and his family’s brand is one of the largest in France.
3). The average, mean, and median age of list members is 59 years old.
Now, granted Decanter is a Brit rag and is prone to be more traditional in its wine leanings. But this list still saddens me. With seven wine writers on the list averaging an above average 63 years of age, is it any wonder why young French and British teens turn more towards cocktails and beer???? Who on this list speaks to them? This is the perfect example of the self-perpetuating stereotype/feedback loop with which the wine industry is choking itself.
This isn’t about age–Michael Broadbent’s the coolest guy on the list, and he’s 78. It’s about the who’s driving the car. Businessmen. That’s who’s driving it all these days. And if we’re not careful, most of the wine people experience will be no different than Coca Cola. It’s already happening.
Let me use an analogy. Imagine if all the old, rich studio heads had all the control in the movie industry, and it was all about the box office. All you’d get is one empty-headed smash ‘em up, swiss cheese action movie after another. Oh wait, that’s actually pretty much what’s happening.
Without the indies, where would the soul come from? Where is everone’s sense of outrage?
Fermentation good. Homogenization bad.



July 11th, 2005 at 7:27 pm
Tell it like it is, bruthah!
July 12th, 2005 at 7:29 pm
What do you mean, if we aren’t careful all the
wine will taste like Coca-Cola. The time is already here. I hate to say, I
have seen the enemy, and the enemy is us! The people driving the wine
industry know more about branding and supply channels than they ever will
about making or enjoying any type of wine, let alone something interesting
and not cut from a mold. Small regional producers that practice their craft
with passion have a tough uphill battle these days. Thankfully there are
still some that view wine as a pleasurable addition to our daily lives, a
joy that can be expanded upon by intellectual pursuits as well if you so
choose. Keep drinking the roses, Rieslings and Grenaches from the honest
and earnest producers and forget all of those Australian Shirazes with some
kind of cute varmint on the label that might as well be a California Shiraz
with some kind of bitchin’ vintage car on the label or any other formulaic
wine that smothers the taste of the grape with a boatload of oak chips,
tannins from a bag and micro-oxygenation. There, I feel much better now,
thank you.
July 13th, 2005 at 5:58 am
um…that’s sistah, BTW