So it’s a big deal that some Chianti producers are under investigation for fraud. What’s the beef? Some producers are under investigation for selling wines marked as Chianti Classico DOCG that are in fact made with grapes from outside of the appelation.

Well, hardly news, how can I say this…..

Duh.

See, regions like Chianti Classico or Champagne stake their reputation on the wines made from the grapes grown within those designated boundaries. But because these monikers garner more money than, say, the appelation right next door….it follows that people would be tempted to make more, fakes. But, unlike a Louis Vuitton bag sold on the streets of Bangkok, that would mean the fraud would have to be perpetrated by the winery itself that is already entitled to use the place name. So a maison de Champagne or Castillo di Chianti are the only people that can defraud the customers. Now, that probably means that the majorit of wine in the bottle is still Chianti Classico, just enhanced with enough other juice to up production.

So who are the most likely culprits? The large wineries driven by sales forcasts no doubt. I mean give me a break. Let’s not be so fucking naive. All you have to do is look and see how many acres are designated for the DOCG of Chianti Classico. They have laws for yields. You can mathematically determine, in a perfect situation, the output of the region’s single vintage (not accounting for weather, etc.). It’s a finite thing. But since capitalism requires yearly growth….well you can see the problem. At some point…unless you redraw the boundaries, you can’t make anymore Chianti Classico. You can’t sell more. Not very capitalistic.

Now, I won’t point fingers, but I know for a fact of 4 producers in Chianti that outsource. Champagne? Well, I’d only be guessing–but I’d wager a few hundies that those guesses are more than mere pontification. When I was in Calabria and Basilicata last year, I talked to more than a few winemakers that were selling juice to the North (Chianti and Piedmont, yes my beloved Piedmont) to producers that want to make juicier, fuller-bodied wines for the International Male, sorry I mean international palate. They shrugged it off as if it was common knowledge.

Hey shit happens. What, you think it’s any different in Napa??? (cough, cough Alexander Valley, cough)

Well then call me, I’ve got this amazing bridge you’ve just got to see.

The article from www.decanter.com:
Chianti: 9m bottles seized in fraud investigation by Michèle Shah