April 30th, 2008

OK, I don’t usually answer these things, but since it’s from Uncle Stan (Hieronomous of Appellation Beer), I’ll bite.
The premise: Share things about yourself that others may not know by picking four categories and providing four answers per category (the master list). I just took Stan’s categories, because you all probably know way too much about me already.
Four things I don’t care for
Children
Ice tea
white Burgundy
your problems
Four writers who changed journalism for me
Hunter S. Thompson
Tom Wolfe
Michael Jackson
Michael Broadbent
(I know, I’m such a cliche)
Four musicians I wish I’d seen
Leadbelly
Keith Moon
T. Rex
Layne Staley (a friend, so sad I never saw him sing live)
Four places I plan to visit in the next 15 months
NYC
Alto Adige
Buenos Aires
The bottom of a magnum of Camille Saves
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April 19th, 2008

Today was the Culinary Showcase of IACP. Like any trade show, you have your big ass sponsors whose money subsidizes the whole shebang and get to fete the attendees, thus solidifying their market share, and you get little gems like…
Gourmet Sardinia: These products make my heart race. Imported by chef Elfisio Farris who wrote the cookbook Sweet Myrtle & Bitter Honey, these various bottles and jars contain the pure joy that is Sardinia.
Bitter honey, or miele amaro, will change your life. There is nothing like a shortbread or polenta cookie topped with fresh whipped ricotta and drizzled with this stuff. Then there’s grated bottarga, flakes of dried mullet roe. Oh I know, I had you at mullet, right? It’s amazing added to simple pasta alla olio along with a little salty cheese. The flavor? It’s a little bit fish sauce, a little bit tobiko, a LOT delicious. THey should call it umami flake.
When you eat Sardinian, drink responsibly–Vermentino. It’s my go to summer wine, more fruit than your average Pinot Grigio, but stil dry, light, crisp like a good little Italian white should be. There’s also Cannonau (an island stowaway that tastes like Grenache on holiday), look for brands Argiolas and Sella & Mosca.
Above: The best thing that ever happened to bartenders. Perfect Puree is a wonderful crutch for creating a cocktail with true fruit flavor that’s not too sweet nor too fruity. My new favorite is tamarind–choice when aded by the teaspoon to a margarita. There’s also blood orange, cherry (WA! Bing!), and a pretty mean mango, the flavor that was responsible for over half of my bar customers when I worked for Wolfie’s (well, more Wolfie’s, er, colorful wife) Pan Asian foray back in the day. You can order from their website direct. I suggest divvying up one of their 30oz jars into an ice cube tray, so there’s no waste.
1 1/2 ounces Sauza tequila
3/4 red pepper Perfect Puree
a huge squeeze of lime
a few dashes tobasco
What’s it called? You know how I hate naming things…a Capsicum? Hey I calls ‘em likes I sees ‘em.
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April 17th, 2008
…and all I got was this lousy photo. To be fair, that popcorn was unbelievable. Salty, cheesy, and spicy. Perfect with the sweat and sour notes of an Abita Amber. To be balanced, the Sazeracs were fair to midland. A little too sweet from an uncaring hand on the Herbsaint.
I know the place dwells on Rue Bourbon, but that doesn’t mean they have to suspend football helmets from the ceiling, does it? And is NOLA a hockey town? I don’t think so. That’s OK, three months from now my romantic notion of the place and its history will have erased all traces of NHL and NFL. (see column here)
Le sigh.
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April 16th, 2008
I pity the sommelier who choses wine over fresh spring veggies. Stupid sommelier, wine can be drunk anytime, but these veggies? They’re only perfect once a year.
Banishing the Myth of the Wine-Killer
in this issue of the Seattle Weekly
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April 11th, 2008

I am taking 30% more baths lately because I’m feeling partially brined. I wanted to test olives for a piece about finding a better martini olive. I don’t know how it’s going to turn out, but so far it’s not going very well. And I am very, very thirsty. Now, I love olives. I can name more varieties than I should admit to, but these gorgeous Italian and Greek olives I thought would love to get in my drink? They really don’t like gin. So much for lofty ideas…
I’ve used Sicilian olive oil in many drink recipes over the years. So whether or not I find the perfect orb of salty goodness for my gin, I do know that a very green, kicky, 3-cough Sicilian olive oil can really liven up a glass of Prosecco. Drizzle the olive oil into the glass after the bubbly. I love doing this in spring and early summer, when the Farmers’ Market starts to come alive…fiddlehead ferns…asparagi…artichoke…shoots-n-sprouts, including the beloved Brussel…spring greens…sunchokes…
After a long, dank winter, your body needs all the spring greens you can shovel. This time of year half of what I eat is pasta or polenta piled high with the aforementioned. Simple butter, oil and shallot dressing, maybe some lemon zest or pepper flake if I get crazy. No recipe necessary, just takes the time to get off your lazy winter butt and hit the market. As soon as I finish my bath…
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April 9th, 2008
Sure, you could do a cafe crawl, or you could just….
Seattle’s Only Truly Pro-Choice Cafe
in this issue of the Seattle Weekly
Any place that is smart enough to have a Synesso and carry Borogove and Lighthouse just can’t suck.
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April 4th, 2008

First, start by asking yourself, what do you want from wine? Do you want a new hobby or are you just looking for Mr. Goodbottle of red?
My last gig as a wine director, in a specialty food store not a restaurant, we had any number of ways in which we completely overwhelmed people, whether the wall of olive oil or my little library of wine and beer. Choice is great, but choice can be daunting.
That’s why wine shops have tastings, so customers can try bottles that the wine buyers are excited about–free of charge and feelings of insecurity. This is where everyone should start to expand their wine horizons. Check your local wine shops online or sign up for their newsletters; every wine shop should have a free weekly tasting. Look for shops that feature a variety of different grapes and places at their tastings–the bigger the variety, the better for you. Since most wine tastings turn into social hour for regulars, don’t be intimidated if you don’t know anyone. Just stand near to the pourer if you’re feeling a little shy, and conversation will take care of itself.
See, all you have to do is make a weekly stop into your local shop and in no time they’ll know your face and your tastes. Bingo, you’ve got your own staff of personal sommeliers. And please don’t think you need to drop a wad of cash every time you go. Even your weekly two bottles of $10 red counts. Make sure you start USING the employees. “I really like this $10 Gruner Veltliner from the tasting the other week (and at least TWO ADJECTIVES why), what else should I try?”
Keep in mind that wine shop employees may get to TASTE many of the fancy bottles for sale in the shop, but very few can afford to BUY them. All we shop employees absolutely live for the grapey values that stick their heads up and out from the crowd. So use that fact to your advantage. If you make a habit of your local wine shop, you’ll barely have to learn anything about wine at all. Knowledge will just accumulate gradually as you gradually figure out what you like and don’t like, bottle from bottle, tasting to tasting.
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April 2nd, 2008
Nero d’Avola is the New Chianti
in this issue of the Seattle Weekly
There was another Nero d’Avola that I was going to recommend in my column, a really great and really cheap one (two words, first one starts with “F”). But the ass monkeys at the distributorship couldn’t even find it in their system so as to confirm whether it was in stock. It’s so frustrating, when I call a distributor and I KNOW they carry the wine I want, but the person on the phone can’t find it.
And distributors? This happens a lot. A scary lot. You might want to expand your orientation programs. How many sales are lost… God the wine business is so ridiculous sometimes. While regular Fortune 500 companies struggle to be relevant in this Web 2.0 world, wine distributors are content to be 8-track. Sigh.
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March 26th, 2008

In my continuing series about those cool bottles on the back bar that few know what to do with, I give to you Herbsaint, a liqueur synonymous with New Orleans:
Herbaint: Tasty, Pedigreed, and 100% American
in this issue of the Seattle Weekly
**This series was started by my love of Galliano (the quintessential neglected bottle) and Strega.
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March 23rd, 2008

Puh-fewww. That’s all I can say about the last two months. Tonight is the first night since New Year’s Eve that I can just sit on the couch and watch TV. The TiVo menu is full, I have a huge bag of fresh rocket and some squid tubes to stew. Mmmm….squid tubes. Sorry, my idea of comfort food leads towards the bitter, the garbanzo, and the squid. I got me a box of Fran’s chocolates, the official chocolate of our household and the perfect balance of bittersweet creaminess. And I have a bottle of sparkling Saumur Rose.
Have we ever talked about Saumur? Saumur is a small region in the Loire Valley known for its Cabernet Franc red wines. However, one of my rules of wine is to snag any cheap bottle of Saumur white or bubbles that I can get my hands on, especially if it’s a direct import.
Saumur whites are pure loveliness, and generally made from Chenin Blanc. Wines made from this grape more often than not give off an apple or cider aroma and/or flavor. No accident, the Loire Valley is apple central. Saumur whites aren’t as sharp as cheaper Sauvignon Blanc, and they are far lighter than Chardonnay–with the best features of each I’d say.
And Saumur bubbles…imagine the above, plus bubbles. This Domaine de Brize Rose is a little pricey ($16), but it escapes the fake fruit pitfall of many an under $20, pink bubbly. The wine is mainly Cabernet Franc, and the aroma is a little candied, but the flavor on impact is pure fresh raspberry curd. The wine finishes soft, the bubbles just shy of aggressive. I’m going to drink mine with chocolate, so I’ll probably drop a sugar cube and some bitters in it to sweeten it up. But I’ve got some lemon ice cream in the freezer to help me finish the rest of the bottle tomorrow…
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